Introduction
We had been talking about going to Nainital for a very long time. A three day holiday just seemed the best time to do it. So we sorta decided on the spot. The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigams Office in Lucknow (Just behind Hutch house on Shah Najaf Road) was helpful and made the necessary bookings at their tourist rest house at Sukhatal in Nainital (two nights) and Corbett International Resort at Corbett (Three nights).This is a pvt. hotel for which KMVN makes bookings – Public-Private partnership as the PRO at KMVN called it – Damn costly though.
Nainital
As with any hill station, the points have wonderful views of the valley below. The lake is wonderful and the boat ride is a must for first timers. The other points are Snow view, Dorothy’s seat, Tiffin top, Lands end and Naini peak. The Himalayan snow caps are supposed to be visible from Snow view but you need an exceptionally clear horizon for that. Snow view is approached by a rope way which gives you bird’s eye view of the lake. There are fancy rides for children at the top as well s a KMVN tourist Rest house (Room rent is inclusive of rope way charges twice a day). There’s a guy with air guns who charges 20 bucks for ten shots at bottles he’s strung up on the trees. It’s a hit with the kids. Dorothy’s seat, Tiffin top and Lands end are approachable only by trekking or on horseback. Tiffin top offers a fantastic view of the Krupa Tal while Dorothy’s seat oversees the Naini Lake. The wild part is the horse ride. It’s bumpy and scary. The slope is steep and the drop is so sheer that your scared for your life in case of a misstep by the horse. But they are sure footed and well trained while the guide runs along with you and stays between the horse and the drop at all times. They advise you on how to sit during the ascent and descent as well as how to control the horse. The key to sitting comfortably on a horse, as I found out, is balance.
Outside of Nainital are the Bhim Tal and Sat Tal lakes which mean a ride by taxi. We did not attempt this and so cannot comment. Someone else may like to add.
Tips - Nainital
The tourist sites in the environs of Nainital are not really accessible by cars or bikes. The only option is trekking or on horseback. If you are young and energetic or unencumbered with kids, then trekking is the option for you. It is invigorating and at the end of each trek is the reward. If you don’t like walking or have small kids in the group then horseback is the best option. The horse saddles may not fit doubles so separate horses for the kids is advisable. For the other lakes around nanital, taxis can be hired.
As you eat breakfast on mall road guides and horse touts identify tourists instantly and solicit customers. I don’t know about the taxis as I didnt hire any. However the horse touts show you albums with all the spots. Then they show you an official looking chart which quotes Rs. 400/- for a standard ride. But considering the fact that it is offseason he will tell you that he will settle for Rs. 300/- per horse. Do haggle at this juncture cos as the day progresses the prices come down drastically as I found out to my cost. They reach about Rs. 125/- per horse by 3-4 pm. However, having said this I would like to add that it is hard work for these fellows – they practically run along with the horse and it is such a steep climb and coupled with the cold it must be pretty difficult. I for one did not mind paying what they asked at the end of the ride along with a tip to boot.
On top of Dorothy’s seat are two cameramen who offer to take wonderful photographs at Rs. 25/- a piece and have them delivered to your hotel by evening. Beware, they are lousy photographers. My digital camera took much sharper photos than the ones he gave me so generally avoid them unless you have battery problem in your cam or your mem stick is full at an inopportune moment.
If you have your own car, entry to the mall is charged at Rs. 50/- while there are toll gates on the way to lovers / suicide point and on the way to Raj Bhavan (Rs. 25/-). Beware of Uttaranchal taxi drivers – they usually think they are the best hill drivers and disdain other drivers especially with other registration plates. Parking at the lake is charged at Rs. 50/- for 24 hrs. They even have a check out time of 12 pm at the parking lot.
Corbett
On our first day at Corbett we managed to hire a gypsy into the Jirna Tourist zone in Corbett. Unfortunately we could not get the morning safari or the afternoon safari to Bijrani Tourist zone. Both the driver of the gypsy and the guide warned us that it would be difficult to see any sightings as the Jirna area lacked perennial water sources. Sure enough, as the hours went by we sighted just a few monkeys and Deer as well as some birds. For a few moments we heard birds screech and the driver stopped expecting a call (that’s local national park lingo for a tiger roaming about – the other animals sound the alarm and this is termed a call). However it turned out to be a false alarm. On our return we sighted a few deer and smaller animals but not the elusive tiger.
The next day we joined the conducted tour to Dhikala Tourist zone. Again we were unlucky not to get the morning tour. Anyway the 1 hour drive to the Dhikala rest house was uneventful with a few deer, crocs and a Gharial being spotted. The fun started after lunch. The Ramganga reservoir is higher above the Dhikala rest house and as we approached it we saw a herd of wild elephants ambling along for a drink of water led by the majestic matriarch. Further ahead two more herds were making their way to the river. As we approached the herd in the middle the matriarch rushed to the herd waving her trunk. Immediately the male tuskers took up flank positions while the females formed a protective ring around the calves. It was a humbling site. The whole herd then retreated. We were not sure if this reaction was due to our presence or due to the presence of the other herds.
As we approached the edge of the Ramganga we had the rare opportunity of seeing three different herds of elephants approaching along the reservoir with the jungle in the background one behind the other. After a few minutes the van turned back. As we contemplated the majesty of these animals in the wild and rued the fact that we had missed the all elusive tiger, the van rounded a corner where two stationary gypsies were stationed with the occupants motionless and binoculars and cameras aimed across the river at a round yellow spot about a klick away. A flicker of emotion swept through the van and everyone surged towards the edge. Lo and behold there was our tiger. In their excitement everyone forgot to be silent until reminded with angry shushes from the occupants of the gypsies. With glee, photographs were taken and taken again just to be sure. We had got our prize. Satisfied, we made our way back to base. Paisa Vasool.
Tips - Corbett
Corbett is divided into 4 main tourist zones – Dhikala, Bijrani, Jirna and Durgadevi in the order of preference by tourists. Dhikala and Bijrani have perennial water sources and hence the chances of sighting the tiger are more. Jirna, on the other hand has water during the monsoon while dry during the summer. Durgadevi has both hilly terrain and is far and hence is least preferred by both tourists and gypsy drivers alike. Bijrani is nearest to Rampur town while Durgadevi is farthest. Entry to the Dhikala zone is though the Dhangadi gate which also houses a pretty good museum. Day Safaris are allowed at all zones except the Dhikala zone. A conducted day tour by a canter van is allowed to the Dhikala zone. Alternatively safaris and private vehicles are allowed into this zone only if one has overnight stay bookings/permits for the forest rest houses in the park.
On the way down to Corbett is the Jim Corbett museum housed in Jim Corbett’s original house at Kaladhungi preserved for posterity. There’s some history to be seen there. There is a small shop selling t-Shirts, trinkets, books and other interesting stuff which can be purchased. Just a few metres on the left of the turn off to Ramanagar is the Corbett falls. It is preserved in all its natural glory with water all year through and calm and peaceful in the mornings (a bit crowded in the afternoons but not as crowded as other famous waterfalls). There’s an entry fee and a resort outside too. A bath on the falls does you wonders.
Corbett Falls and Kaladhungi Close
